South Pigalle and Rue des Martyrs, a Self-Guided Paris Walk
1h45. 1.2 miles. From Rue des Martyrs (bottom) to Place Saint-Georges / Pigalle.
The neighborhood Parisians actually want to live in right now: 'SoPi', a hill of great food shops, cocktail bars in old cabaret houses, and elegant 19th-century squares. A tasty, stylish, thoroughly local walk.
The local move
Shop rue des Martyrs like a resident: a little from many shops. This is one of the last great food streets in central Paris, and the locals treat it as their daily larder, not a photo op.
Best time to go
Morning to early afternoon for the food street; early evening for the cocktail bars.
When to avoid it
Mondays, when several rue des Martyrs food shops are closed.
The stops
Église Notre-Dame-de-Lorette
A richly decorated 19th-century church at the foot of the street.
Tip: Step in for the painted interior, a surprising burst of color, then start the climb.
Le Bouclier de Bacchus
A warm little wine bar in the heart of South Pigalle, the old cabaret quarter now reborn as the city's cocktail and natural-wine heartland. A good place to end the walk with a glass.
Tip: A lovely glass-of-wine pause mid-walk, or note it and come back after the climb up rue des Martyrs.
Place Saint-Georges
An elegant round square with a fountain and grand Second Empire mansions.
Tip: A pretty, calm pause. Note the ornate Hotel de la Paiva on the square.
Rue des Martyrs
A climbing market street packed with bakeries, cheesemongers, chocolatiers and greengrocers.
Tip: Graze your way up: a pastry, a cheese, a coffee. One of the best pure food streets in Paris.
Musée de la Vie Romantique
A charming small museum in a garden villa where George Sand and Chopin's circle gathered.
Tip: Free to enter the house; the garden tearoom is one of the loveliest quiet cafes in Paris.
About these walks
This is one of the free self-guided Paris walks written by the Chic Trip team, locals who plan and book full Paris trips for American travelers. Get our free insider Paris guide at chic-trip.com/free-paris-guide, or have us plan your whole trip at chic-trip.com/paris-travel-planner.