Batignolles, the Village Nobody Told You About, a Self-Guided Paris Walk
1h30. 1.2 miles. From Square des Batignolles to Parc Clichy-Batignolles.
The neighborhood where young Paris actually lives. An English-style square, an organic market, bakeries with lines on Sunday, and not a single souvenir shop. This is what the Marais felt like twenty years ago.
The local move
Come on Saturday morning when the organic market is on and the whole quartier does its shopping. Buy cheese, bread and fruit, then eat it in the square like everyone else.
Best time to go
Saturday morning for the market. Sunday morning for the bakery-and-square routine.
When to avoid it
Rainy weekdays, the charm here is outdoor life.
The stops
Square des Batignolles
An English-style garden from 1862 with a duck pond, a grotto, black swans and giant plane trees. The heart of village life in the 17th.
Tip: The benches by the pond are the neighborhood living room. Coffee from a nearby bakery, twenty minutes, and you are a local.
Marché des Batignolles
The organic market of the north-west of Paris, Saturday mornings on boulevard des Batignolles. Small producers, raw milk cheese, real bread.
Tip: Go to the cheese stalls last so you do not carry them around, and taste before buying, everyone does.
Pain Pain
Sebastien Mauvieux won the Grand Prix de la Baguette, and this bright bakery is where the neighborhood queues for it on weekend mornings.
Tip: Ask for the baguette tradition bien cuite, well baked. That is how the regulars order it.
Rue des Dames
The spine of the quartier, lined with small cafes, wine bars and independent shops. No chains, no crowds, just the daily life of the 17th.
Tip: Window-shop the length of it and pick a terrace for a coffee. This street is the reason people move to Batignolles.
Parc Clichy-Batignolles - Martin Luther King
The newest big park of Paris, built on old rail yards, with wild grasses, a skate bowl and views of the timber towers of the eco-district.
Tip: Climb the small hill at the center for a view most visitors never see, new Paris rising over old rail tracks.
Ways to change it up
Make it a food walk
Add Miznon Batignolles or Copains for lunch, both a short walk from the square.
Want more
Continue north into the new Clichy-Batignolles eco-district to see how Paris builds now, timber towers and all.
About these walks
This is one of the free self-guided Paris walks written by the Chic Trip team, locals who plan and book full Paris trips for American travelers. Get our free insider Paris guide at chic-trip.com/free-paris-guide, or have us plan your whole trip at chic-trip.com/paris-travel-planner.
