A Food Morning on Rue Montorgueil
A self-guided walk in Paris.
1h45. 0.7 miles. From Église Saint-Eustache to Rue du Nil.
The market street Parisians actually use, two minutes from Les Halles. In one short morning you pass the oldest pastry shop in Paris, a baker's secret supply store, and the counters where chefs shop. Come hungry, leave with a picnic.
The local move
Do it before 11am. The street belongs to delivery carts and locals with baskets in the morning, and to tourists after noon. Order your coffee standing at the bar like everyone else, it is also cheaper.
Best time to go
Morning, Tuesday to Saturday. Many shops close on Monday.
When to avoid it
Sunday afternoon and Monday, half the street is shuttered.
The stops
Église Saint-Eustache
The colossal church of the old market quarter, where Louis XIV took first communion and Mozart attended his mother's funeral. Its organ is one of the largest in France.
Tip: Step inside for two minutes, the nave is as tall as Notre-Dame's. Free organ recitals most Sundays at 5.30pm.
Comptoir de la Gastronomie
A 1894 epicerie fine specializing in foie gras, truffles and southwest France products, with a small restaurant attached.
Tip: They vacuum-seal foie gras for travel and it is allowed in checked luggage to the US. Ask them, they do it daily.
G. Detou
The professional baker's supply shop, open to everyone. Kilo bags of Valrhona chocolate, real vanilla, candied fruit, the ingredients behind every good Paris patisserie.
Tip: The 1kg bags of Valrhona chocolate cost about half of what you would pay at home. It survives the flight fine.
L'Escargot Montorgueil
The golden snail above the door has marked this house since 1832. Sarah Bernhardt and Marcel Proust ate snails here, and the interior is a listed monument.
Tip: End the walk with a half-dozen snails and a glass of Chablis at the bar. Lunch service starts at noon.
Fou de Pâtisserie
A concept shop that gathers the best pastries from the top pastry chefs of Paris under one roof, so you can taste a Cedric Grolet or a Pierre Herme creation without crossing the city.
Tip: They stock limited quantities from each chef. If you see something rare, take it, it will be gone by noon.
Stohrer
The oldest patisserie in Paris, founded in 1730 by the pastry chef of King Louis XV. The baba au rhum was invented here and they still make it the same way.
Tip: Order the baba au rhum and a puits d'amour. The decor alone, painted by Paul Baudry who decorated the Opera Garnier, is worth the stop.
Terroirs d'Avenir
The tiny rue du Nil is the supply street of new Paris bistronomy. Terroirs d'Avenir's fish, meat, produce and bread shops feed the chefs, and anyone else who walks in.
Tip: This is where the chefs of Frenchie and half the young bistros of Paris buy. Assemble the last pieces of your picnic here.
About these walks
Explore our self-guided routes by city, with useful stops and practical notes from Chic Trip. Explore the destinations we plan.
