Aventine Hill and a Testaccio Food Crawl
A self-guided walk in Rome.
3h. 2.1 miles. From Bocca della Verità to Flavio al Velavevodetto.
The quiet hill first, orange trees and the keyhole view, then down into Testaccio, the neighbourhood that invented Roman cooking.
The local move
Do the hill before 11am, arrive at the market by noon and let lunch unfold in three stops.
Best time to go
Tuesday to Saturday, from 10am
When to avoid it
Sunday, when the market is closed and the trattorie are full of families
The stops
Bocca della Verità
The Mouth of Truth in the portico of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, a Roman drain cover made famous by a film.
Tip: The queue is for the photo. The church behind it is free and empty.
Circus Maximus
The chariot racetrack, now a long green valley under the Palatine palaces.
Tip: Walk the length on the grass path; it is the shortest way to the hill.
Roseto Comunale
The city rose garden on the slope, open in spring and early summer.
Tip: If the gate is closed, the lane beside it still climbs to the orange garden.
Giardino degli Aranci
Orange trees, a stone terrace and the whole city to St Peter's dome.
Tip: Best light before 11am. Benches on the left are shaded.
Aventine Keyhole
The keyhole of the Knights of Malta frames St Peter's dome at the end of a garden path.
Tip: A short line moves fast. One eye, no phone through the hole.
Volpetti
The great delicatessen of Testaccio, cheeses and cured meats vacuum packed for the flight.
Tip: Ask to taste before choosing. They ship to the US too.
Mercato di Testaccio
The covered market where Romans still shop, with lunch counters between the stalls.
Tip: Closed Sundays. Go to box 15 for Mordi e Vai's sandwiches.
Trapizzino Testaccio
Pizza pockets filled with Roman stews, the neighbourhood's invention.
Tip: The chicken cacciatore and the meatball are the classics.
Flavio al Velavevodetto
Trattoria dug into Monte Testaccio, the hill of ancient amphora shards.
Tip: Ask for a table by the glass wall to see the amphorae. Book for dinner.
Ways to change it up
Stop after the market and Trapizzino; keep Flavio for a dinner reservation.
About these walks
Explore our self-guided routes by city, with useful stops and practical notes from Chic Trip. Explore the destinations we plan.
