A Marais Food Crawl
A self-guided walk in Paris.
2h. 1.2 miles. From Chez Alain Miam Miam, rue Charlot to Rue des Rosiers.
The Marais is one of the best eating neighborhoods in Paris, and this walk grazes across it: a cult sandwich counter, a great cheese shop, pitas that draw a Sunday line, and the pastry to finish. Come hungry.
The local move
Eat in small bites across several places instead of one big sit-down. Half a sandwich at the counter, a cheese to nibble, a pita standing up, a pastry walking. That's how you actually taste a neighborhood.
Best time to go
Around lunch, Tuesday to Saturday. Rue des Rosiers is liveliest on Sunday, when much of the Marais eats there.
When to avoid it
Monday and Tuesday, when the sandwich counter is closed, and Saturday, when Miznon closes for Shabbat.
The stops
Chez Alain Miam Miam
A cult sandwich and crêpe counter on rue Charlot, everything built to order with good bread and serious cheese.
Tip: Share one sandwich, they are big, and keep room for the rest of the walk. Open Wednesday to Sunday, 9am to 5pm.
Jacques Genin
A celebrated chocolatier and pastry chef, famous for caramels and a legendary millefeuille made to order.
Tip: Sit upstairs and order the millefeuille; it's assembled fresh, so it takes a few minutes and it's worth every one.
Jouannault
A Marais cheese shop with a ripening cellar and a knowledgeable counter.
Tip: Ask for a couple of cheeses to eat now and say so; they'll pick something ready. A comte and a soft goat is a good pair.
Miznon
Eyal Shani's pita bar, a few steps from rue des Rosiers: warm pitas stuffed to order and a whole roasted cauliflower with its own fan club.
Tip: Order at the counter and help yourself to the tahini. Closed Saturdays and from mid-afternoon on Fridays.
Rue des Rosiers
The historic Jewish quarter, old bakeries beside fashion boutiques, the heart of Marais eating.
Tip: Finish with an apple strudel or a poppy-seed pastry from one of the long-standing bakeries.
About these walks
Explore our self-guided routes by city, with useful stops and practical notes from Chic Trip. Explore the destinations we plan.