A Marais Food Crawl, a Self-Guided Paris Walk
2h. 1.2 miles. From Marché des Enfants Rouges to Rue des Rosiers.
The Marais is one of the best eating neighborhoods in Paris, and this walk grazes across it: the oldest covered market, a great cheese shop, falafel that draws a Sunday line, and the pastry to finish. Come hungry.
The local move
Eat in small bites across several places instead of one big sit-down. A stall at the market, a cheese to nibble, a falafel standing up, a pastry walking. That's how you actually taste a neighborhood.
Best time to go
Around lunch, Tuesday to Saturday. Rue des Rosiers is liveliest on Sunday, when much of the Marais eats there.
When to avoid it
Mondays, when the covered market and some shops are closed.
The stops
Marché des Enfants Rouges
The oldest covered market in Paris, from 1615, now a run of small food stalls from Moroccan to Italian.
Tip: Start with a plate from one stall at the shared tables. Come before 1pm to beat the rush.
Jacques Genin
A celebrated chocolatier and pastry chef, famous for caramels and a legendary millefeuille made to order.
Tip: Sit upstairs and order the millefeuille; it's assembled fresh, so it takes a few minutes and it's worth every one.
Jouannault
A Marais cheese shop with a ripening cellar and a knowledgeable counter.
Tip: Ask for a couple of cheeses to eat now and say so; they'll pick something ready. A comte and a soft goat is a good pair.
L'As du Fallafel
The most famous falafel in Paris, green door on rue des Rosiers, always a line.
Tip: Order the 'special' from the street window to take away; the line moves fast and it's cheaper than the table.
Rue des Rosiers
The historic Jewish quarter, old bakeries beside fashion boutiques, the heart of Marais eating.
Tip: Finish with an apple strudel or a poppy-seed pastry from one of the long-standing bakeries.
About these walks
This is one of the free self-guided Paris walks written by the Chic Trip team, locals who plan and book full Paris trips for American travelers. Get our free insider Paris guide at chic-trip.com/free-paris-guide, or have us plan your whole trip at chic-trip.com/paris-travel-planner.