Monti, the Village Behind the Forum
A self-guided walk in Rome.
2h. 1.2 miles. From San Pietro in Vincoli to Santa Maria Maggiore.
Rome's oldest neighbourhood lives like a village: a Michelangelo in a church, vintage racks, a gelato square, then two basilicas of mosaics.
The local move
Come on a weekend morning for the market, or a weekday afternoon for the wine bars. Either way finish at Santa Maria Maggiore before 6pm.
Best time to go
Saturday or Sunday from 10am
When to avoid it
Monday, when many boutiques are closed
The stops
San Pietro in Vincoli
Michelangelo's Moses sits in a side aisle, lit by a coin machine.
Tip: Bring a one euro coin for the lights. Closed 12:30 to 3pm.
Via dei Serpenti
The spine of Monti: boutiques, wine bars and the Colosseum at the bottom of the street.
Tip: Look left at every cross street; the best lanes are Via del Boschetto and Via Urbana.
Pifebo Vintage
Vintage by the kilo, a Monti institution for leather jackets and seventies dresses.
Tip: Weigh before you fall in love.
Mercato Monti
Weekend market of young designers and vintage inside a hotel hall.
Tip: Weekends only, 10am to 8pm.
Fatamorgana Monti
Natural gelato on the prettiest square in Monti, Piazza degli Zingari.
Tip: Try the basil and honey, or ask for the seasonal fruit.
Santa Prassede
Byzantine mosaics from the ninth century in the chapel of Saint Zeno, a jewel box in gold.
Tip: Coin light again. Stand in the chapel doorway and look up.
Santa Maria Maggiore
One of the four papal basilicas, fifth century mosaics and a ceiling gilded with the first gold from the Americas.
Tip: Free entry, dress code applies. Best light late afternoon.
Ways to change it up
Reverse the walk on a weekday evening and finish with a glass at Ai Tre Scalini on Via Panisperna.
About these walks
Explore our self-guided routes by city, with useful stops and practical notes from Chic Trip. Explore the destinations we plan.
