Opéra and the Grand Boulevards, a Self-Guided Paris Walk
2h. 1.5 miles. From Palais Garnier to Place de la Madeleine.
Belle Epoque Paris: a gilded opera house, the grand department stores under their stained-glass domes, the covered passages of the boulevards, and a gourmet square to finish. This is where 19th-century Paris went to see and be seen.
The local move
Ride the escalators to the rooftop terrace of Galeries Lafayette. It's free, most shoppers never go up, and the view over the opera and the rooftops is one of the best you don't pay for.
Best time to go
Weekday late morning; the stores open around 10 and are calmest before lunch.
When to avoid it
Sundays, when some of the department stores keep shorter hours.
The stops
Palais Garnier
The lavish 1875 opera house that inspired Phantom of the Opera, all marble, gold and a Chagall ceiling.
Tip: You can tour the interior by day without a show. The grand staircase and the ceiling are the highlights.
Galeries Lafayette
The grand department store crowned by a monumental 1912 stained-glass and steel dome.
Tip: Go in for the dome, ride up for the free rooftop terrace, buy nothing if you like. Both are the reason to come.
Printemps
The rival grand magasin next door, with its own Art Nouveau cupola and a rooftop cafe.
Tip: Another free rooftop view if Lafayette's is busy. The beauty hall ceilings are worth a glance.
Passage des Panoramas
The oldest covered passage in Paris, from 1799, now full of stamp dealers and small bistros.
Tip: A good lunch detour. The little wine bars fill by 12:30.
Église de la Madeleine
A church built like a Greek temple, 52 Corinthian columns and no visible cross from outside.
Tip: Climb the steps for the view straight down to the Assemblee across the river. Free classical concerts inside sometimes.
Place de la Madeleine
A gourmet square ringed by luxury food houses: mustard, truffles, and the famous delicatessens.
Tip: Window-shop the food temples. Duck into Fauchon or Hediard to gawk; the flower market is on the east side.
About these walks
This is one of the free self-guided Paris walks written by the Chic Trip team, locals who plan and book full Paris trips for American travelers. Get our free insider Paris guide at chic-trip.com/free-paris-guide, or have us plan your whole trip at chic-trip.com/paris-travel-planner.
