Campo de' Fiori, the Ghetto and Tiber Island
A self-guided walk in Rome.
2h. 1.3 miles. From Largo di Torre Argentina to Isola Tiberina.
Market square, papal palaces, Borromini's trick corridor, then the Jewish quarter and its fried artichokes, ending on the island in the river.
The local move
Morning for the market and the bakery, lunch in the Ghetto, then cross to the island before the afternoon crowds.
Best time to go
Morning, from 9:30am
When to avoid it
Saturday, when most of the Ghetto's kitchens and the bakery are closed
The stops
Largo di Torre Argentina
Four Republican temples below street level, the spot where Caesar was killed, and a cat sanctuary.
Tip: Look from the railings; the walkway inside costs a few euros and adds little.
Campo de' Fiori
The morning market under Giordano Bruno's hooded statue.
Tip: Buy fruit, skip the packaged pasta. The stalls pack up around 2pm.
Forno Campo de' Fiori
Pizza bianca hot from the oven, on the corner of the square.
Tip: Order a small piece of bianca and a piece of rossa, eat standing.
Piazza Farnese
Michelangelo's palace, now the French embassy, and two bathtub fountains from the Baths of Caracalla.
Tip: The embassy opens for guided visits on some days; book weeks ahead.
Galleria Spada
Borromini's forced perspective corridor: nine metres that look like thirty.
Tip: Ask the guard to walk to the end; the statue is knee high.
Fontana delle Tartarughe
Four bronze youths lift turtles into a basin on a quiet square.
Tip: Sit on the steps of Palazzo Mattei; the courtyard behind is open and full of statues.
Pasticceria Boccione
The Ghetto's bakery with no sign, ricotta and sour cherry tart.
Tip: Cash only, sells out by early afternoon, closed Saturday.
Piperno
The old dining room for carciofi alla giudia, fried whole.
Tip: Artichoke season runs roughly November to April. Book.
Isola Tiberina
The boat shaped island with a hospital, a church and a summer cinema on the banks.
Tip: Cross by Ponte Fabricio, the oldest bridge in Rome, and walk down to the water.
Ways to change it up
Swap Boccione and Piperno for Roscioli Salumeria on Via dei Giubbonari, open every day.
About these walks
Explore our self-guided routes by city, with useful stops and practical notes from Chic Trip. Explore the destinations we plan.
