Montmartre, Above the City, a Self-Guided Paris Walk
2h30. 1.6 miles. From Place des Abbesses to Place du Tertre / Sacré-Cœur.
Montmartre is a hill village that got swallowed by Paris and never quite gave in. Vineyards, artists' squares, the white domes of Sacre-Coeur, and lanes the tour groups never find. This climbs gently and ends on the best free view in the city.
The local move
Start at Abbesses and climb the quiet back lanes, not the stair from Anvers. You arrive at the top from the side everyone else is trying to leave.
Best time to go
Early morning or late afternoon. Midday the summit is a crush; the back streets never are.
When to avoid it
Weekend middays around Place du Tertre, when the portrait painters and crowds peak.
The stops
Place des Abbesses
A leafy square with one of the last original Art Nouveau metro glass canopies in Paris.
Tip: Duck into the little garden beside it to find the 'I love you' wall, love written 250 times in every language.
Le Mur des Je t'aime
A wall of dark enamel tiles where 'I love you' is written in over 250 languages.
Tip: It's tiny and easy to miss, tucked in Square Jehan Rictus off the square. Two minutes, worth it.
Rue Lepic
A curving market street climbing the hill, greengrocers and cafes, and the Cafe des Deux Moulins from Amelie.
Tip: Buy fruit or a pastry here for the climb. This is a real neighborhood shopping street, not a set.
Moulin de la Galette
The last of Montmartre's windmills, once a dance hall painted by Renoir.
Tip: You see it from the street; it's a restaurant now. Good photo, no need to go in.
Clos Montmartre
A working vineyard on the hillside, a survivor of the days when Montmartre was farmland.
Tip: You can only see it through the fence unless you visit in October for the harvest festival. Still a lovely surprise.
La Maison Rose
The little pink house painted by Utrillo, on a corner that feels like a village square.
Tip: One of the most photographed corners in Paris. Come before 10am to have it to yourself.
Place du Tertre
The old artists' square, packed with easels and portrait painters. Touristy, but historically the real thing.
Tip: Walk through, don't sit for the overpriced coffee. The magic is one street over in the quiet lanes.
Basilique du Sacré-Cœur
The white basilica crowning the hill, and the free panoramic terrace in front of it.
Tip: The view from the steps is free and huge. For the dome climb, go inside; the terrace alone is enough for most.
About these walks
This is one of the free self-guided Paris walks written by the Chic Trip team, locals who plan and book full Paris trips for American travelers. Get our free insider Paris guide at chic-trip.com/free-paris-guide, or have us plan your whole trip at chic-trip.com/paris-travel-planner.
