The Hidden Courtyards of the Marais, a Self-Guided Paris Walk

1h45. 1.2 miles. From Rue de Turenne to Rue Vieille du Temple.

Behind the grand Marais facades hide courtyards most visitors never push open: craftsmen's workshops, secret gardens, and the cobbled cours where cabinetmakers and gilders still work. A slow, curious walk for people who like to open doors.

The local move

Push the big carriage doors. Many Marais mansions have a heavy street door (the porte cochere) left ajar onto a hidden courtyard. If it's open, step in quietly, it's how you find the workshops and gardens no guidebook maps.

Best time to go

Weekday daytime, when the workshops are open and doors are unlocked.

When to avoid it

Sundays and evenings, when the courtyard doors are mostly shut.

The stops

  1. Passage de l'Ancre

    A tiny plant-filled private passage of old workshops, including a traditional umbrella repairer.

    Tip: Easy to walk past; the entrance is a plain door on rue de Turbigo. One of the Marais's best-kept secrets.

  2. Marché des Enfants Rouges

    The oldest covered market in Paris, from 1615, a warren of food stalls behind an easy-to-miss gate.

    Tip: Start with a coffee or an early lunch here. Closed Mondays.

  3. Hôtel de Soubise gardens

    The grand courtyard and gardens of a Marais mansion, now the national archives.

    Tip: The horseshoe courtyard is free to enter and usually calm. A grand, hidden pocket of quiet.

  4. Rue des Rosiers

    The lively old Jewish quarter, half historic bakeries and half fashion, to end the walk with a bite.

    Tip: Finish with falafel or an apple strudel from one of the old bakeries.

  5. Village Saint-Paul

    A cluster of linked courtyards full of antique and vintage dealers, entered through unmarked passages.

    Tip: Enter from rue Saint-Paul and wander the connected cours. Calm, cobbled, and full of curiosities.

About these walks

This is one of the free self-guided Paris walks written by the Chic Trip team, locals who plan and book full Paris trips for American travelers. Get our free insider Paris guide at chic-trip.com/free-paris-guide, or have us plan your whole trip at chic-trip.com/paris-travel-planner.

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