The Covered Passages, a Self-Guided Paris Walk
2h. 1.4 miles. From Jardin du Palais Royal to Passage Verdeau.
Before shopping malls, Paris had glass-roofed passages, elegant shortcuts full of shops, cafes and light. Most have vanished; this walk strings together the finest survivors in one easy line, perfect for a grey or rainy day.
The local move
Do it when it rains. This whole walk is under glass, so it's the one Paris outing that gets better in bad weather.
Best time to go
Late morning into lunch. Most passages close their gates in the evening, roughly 8pm to 10pm.
When to avoid it
Sunday, when many of the individual shops inside are shut, though the passages themselves stay open.
The stops
Jardin du Palais Royal
A calm arcaded garden hidden behind the old royal palace. Rose beds, fountains, and the striped Buren columns at the entrance.
Tip: Start here early with a coffee. The arcades on the sides are lined with tiny old shops, medals, lead soldiers, perfume.
Galerie Vero-Dodat
One of the most elegant passages, black-and-white tiled floor, mahogany shopfronts, gaslight-era mirrors.
Tip: Small and easy to miss between rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs and rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. The Christian Louboutin workshop is here.
Galerie Vivienne
The queen of the passages, from 1823. Mosaic floors, a glass roof, a beautiful old bookshop and a wine merchant.
Tip: Stand in the middle and look down at the floor mosaics, then up at the rotunda. A tea at A Priori The is the classic pause.
Passage des Panoramas
The oldest covered passage still standing, from 1799. Once the first in Paris lit by gas. Now stamp dealers and small bistros.
Tip: This is the lunch stretch. The little wine bars fill fast at 12:30, so grab a table on the early side.
Passage Jouffroy
Cross the boulevard and you are in Jouffroy, home to the Grevin waxwork museum, a walking-stick shop and a wonderful toy store.
Tip: The Hotel Chopin at the far end is tucked inside the passage itself. Even if you don't stay, peek at the entrance.
Passage Verdeau
The quiet last link of the chain, high glass roof, old prints, cameras and rare books. The least touristy of the run.
Tip: Best light in the late morning when the sun hits the glass. Good for old postcards and a browse, few crowds.
About these walks
This is one of the free self-guided Paris walks written by the Chic Trip team, locals who plan and book full Paris trips for American travelers. Get our free insider Paris guide at chic-trip.com/free-paris-guide, or have us plan your whole trip at chic-trip.com/paris-travel-planner.
