Belleville and Ménilmontant, a Self-Guided Paris Walk
2h30. 1.9 miles. From Métro Belleville to Parc de Belleville / Ménilmontant.
The real, multicultural, hilly east of Paris: street art on every wall, the birthplace of Edith Piaf, a Chinatown of great cheap food, and a hilltop park with a skyline view that beats Montmartre for crowds.
The local move
Eat here. Belleville has some of the best and cheapest food in Paris, Vietnamese, Chinese, Tunisian, all far from a tourist menu. Pick the place that's full of locals and just go in.
Best time to go
Daytime for the street art and the park view; lunch is the meal to have here.
When to avoid it
After dark the quieter streets are less lively; keep it a daytime walk.
The stops
Rue de Belleville
The spine of the neighborhood, climbing past Chinese and Vietnamese restaurants, groceries and old cafes.
Tip: A plaque at No. 72 marks where Edith Piaf was said to be born, on the steps. The pho here is superb and cheap.
Rue Dénoyez
A short lane covered wall to wall in ever-changing street art and graffiti.
Tip: The colors change every few weeks. Come for photos; this is the heart of Belleville's art scene.
Parc de Belleville
A steep terraced park with a waterfall and, from the top, one of the widest views over Paris.
Tip: Climb to the terrace at the top for the skyline, Eiffel Tower and all, with almost no crowd.
Rue de Ménilmontant
A long climbing street of bars, bakeries and a young arty crowd, the softer sister of Belleville.
Tip: Good for a coffee or a natural-wine bar. It gets livelier the further up you go.
Église Notre-Dame-de-la-Croix
A large neo-Gothic church looming over Menilmontant, with steps that give another view west.
Tip: The steps and the small square in front are a fine, quiet place to end and look back over the city.
About these walks
This is one of the free self-guided Paris walks written by the Chic Trip team, locals who plan and book full Paris trips for American travelers. Get our free insider Paris guide at chic-trip.com/free-paris-guide, or have us plan your whole trip at chic-trip.com/paris-travel-planner.
