Quiet Corners of the 7th: Gardens Behind the Monuments, a Self-Guided Paris Walk
1h30. 1.6 miles. From Deyrolle, 46 rue du Bac to Cour d'honneur des Invalides.
The 7th is where Paris keeps its monuments, and also its most discreet gardens. Between the Eiffel Tower crowds and the museums, this walk slips into a taxidermy cabinet of curiosities, a convent kitchen garden, and squares even locals forget.
The local move
The small squares open at 8am on weekdays and locals use them like private gardens before work. Come early with a pastry from a rue du Bac bakery and you will have them to yourself.
Best time to go
Weekday mornings, when the small gardens are open and empty.
When to avoid it
Sundays, when Catherine-Laboure and the small squares keep shorter hours and Deyrolle is closed.
The stops
Deyrolle
A taxidermy and natural history cabinet above a gardening boutique, trading since 1831. Lions, peacocks and butterflies in a Left Bank apartment.
Tip: Free to browse upstairs, Monday to Saturday. Photography rules change; ask first.
Square Recamier
A green dead-end square hidden at the bottom of rue Recamier, off the shopping bustle of rue de Sevres.
Tip: The benches at the back, under the big trees, are the shadiest reading spot in the quarter.
Jardin Catherine-Laboure
A former convent kitchen garden with vine pergolas, lawns you can sit on, and vegetable beds, walled off from rue de Babylone.
Tip: Weekdays from 8am. Locals picnic on the grass at lunch; mornings it is nearly empty.
Square Denys-Buhler
A peaceful planted square on rue de Grenelle in the shadow of Les Invalides, with a duck pond and almost no tourists.
Tip: Perfect decompression stop between the Rodin museum and the Invalides if you are museum-hopping.
Cour d'honneur des Invalides
The grand ceremonial courtyard of the Invalides, ringed by cannon and arcades. Outside events it is surprisingly calm.
Tip: Enter free from the north side, place des Invalides, daily until about 7pm. Napoleon's tomb is a paid ticket, the courtyard is not.
About these walks
This is one of the free self-guided Paris walks written by the Chic Trip team, locals who plan and book full Paris trips for American travelers. Get our free insider Paris guide at chic-trip.com/free-paris-guide, or have us plan your whole trip at chic-trip.com/paris-travel-planner.
