Secret Hills of the 19th, a Self-Guided Paris Walk
2h15. 2.7 miles. From Butte Bergeyre Lower Stairs to Square de la Butte-du-Chapeau-Rouge.
A hilly walk through two of eastern Paris's most surprising village landscapes, joining Butte Bergeyre, the dramatic edges of Buttes-Chaumont and the flowered lanes of Mouzaïa.
The local move
Wear shoes with grip and accept the hills: the reward is a side of Paris built from vineyards, villas and changing skyline views rather than monuments.
Best time to go
Morning or late afternoon in dry weather
When to avoid it
Icy conditions, heavy rain or after dark because of slopes and stairs
The stops
Butte Bergeyre Lower Stairs
The climb begins almost invisibly from the street, revealing a tiny hilltop district above the surrounding avenues.
Tip: A longer street approach is available for anyone avoiding the first staircase.
Butte Bergeyre Vineyard View
A pocket vineyard and open western view make the hill feel detached from dense northern Paris.
Tip: This is residential; enjoy the view without entering planted areas or blocking doorways.
Buttes-Chaumont Southern Perimeter
A street-level approach reveals the park's steep quarry landscape from outside its current construction zone.
Tip: Remain on the Rue Manin pavement and follow the southern perimeter toward Botzaris.
Buttes-Chaumont Botzaris Gate
Pause at the southern gate of Paris's most dramatic nineteenth-century park, created from a former quarry.
Tip: The central park, lake and Temple de la Sibylle are currently closed for major works, so this walk stays outside the construction perimeter.
Rue Botzaris Park Edge
Follow the park's southern edge along Rue Botzaris while the central landscape is closed for restoration.
Tip: Stay on the street-side pavement and obey the temporary signs around every park gate.
Place Rhin-et-Danube
This calm circular square marks the transition from the park landscape into the small-house district beyond.
Tip: It is a convenient place for a short café or water stop before Mouzaïa.
Rue de Mouzaïa
The district's central street introduces a network of lanes built above former gypsum quarries.
Tip: Look for the villa entrances on both sides rather than following only the main road.
Villa de la Renaissance
Small houses, steps and dense planting capture the intimate scale that makes Mouzaïa exceptional.
Tip: Stay on publicly accessible lanes and turn back whenever a gate or sign marks private space.
Square de la Butte-du-Chapeau-Rouge
Finish with a broad eastern view from an interwar park shaped by terraces and monumental sculpture.
Tip: The final park extension can be shortened by ending near métro Pré-Saint-Gervais.
About these walks
This is one of the free self-guided Paris walks written by the Chic Trip team, locals who plan and book full Paris trips for American travelers. Get our free insider Paris guide at chic-trip.com/free-paris-guide, or have us plan your whole trip at chic-trip.com/paris-travel-planner.
