The Quirinale Hill, Bernini against Borromini
A self-guided walk in Rome.
2h. 1.3 miles. From Palazzo del Quirinale to Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.
Two rival architects on one street, a palace of Caravaggios, the Ecstasy of Saint Teresa, then Livia's painted garden in a museum nobody visits.
The local move
Churches close at lunch: do the two on Via del Quirinale before noon, the museums after.
Best time to go
Morning, Tuesday to Sunday
When to avoid it
Monday, when Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Massimo are closed
The stops
Palazzo del Quirinale
The president's palace on the highest of the seven hills, a terrace over the domes.
Tip: The changing of the guard is at 4pm on weekdays, 6pm in summer.
Sant'Andrea al Quirinale
Bernini's oval church, the one he called his only perfect work.
Tip: Sit in the centre and look at the dome: the gold is real.
San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane
Borromini's answer, two hundred metres up the street, a rippling facade on a plot the size of a pier of St Peter's.
Tip: Go into the cloister; the courtyard is his best small room.
Palazzo Barberini
Caravaggio's Judith, Raphael's Fornarina, and two staircases, one by Bernini, one by Borromini.
Tip: Allow ninety minutes. The Borromini spiral staircase is on the right of the entrance.
Santa Maria della Vittoria
Bernini's Ecstasy of Saint Teresa in a theatre box of marble.
Tip: Left transept. Closed 12 to 3:30pm.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Roman frescoes moved room by room from Livia's villa, a painted garden on the top floor.
Tip: Go straight to the second floor. The ticket also covers the Baths of Diocletian next door.
Ways to change it up
Colline Emiliane on Via degli Avignonesi, hand rolled tortellini, between Barberini and Santa Maria della Vittoria. Book.
About these walks
Explore our self-guided routes by city, with useful stops and practical notes from Chic Trip. Explore the destinations we plan.
